In a couple of weeks time I will start paddling my Kayak down the Murray River. The first night will be at a camp-site just west of Albury. It’s over 2000 kilometers from the mouth of the Murray. If it’s two months it will be between 30 and 40 kilometers a day. I have visualized the end, as much as possible, standing out of my Kayak, with my paddles in the air, thinking about it all and that it is done and the people that have got me there. I have also thought through as many things as possible that could go wrong. Many I have practiced, but there will be unknowns that I will have to work through. After all many have done this before.
I read once from an aboriginal spiritualist that you really must see the sunrise and sunset every day. I am looking forward to that. I am also looking forward to all the other natural life on the river. The ducks, the birds, the fish, the lizards and the snakes.
I spent last Tuesday at Lake Nagambie practicing rolling and packing the Kayak. At about 3/4 of the weight it felt excellent paddling. Better that empty, with a earlier secondary buoyancy take up. My rolling skill level is not 100%. I nail about 3 out of 5. So need more practice. It rolled no problem loaded. If in the time left I can get in upside down and roll back up would be great for getting knocked completely over by a speedboat.
I have put, perhaps too much, thought into food. Because I am a vegetarian it is a little simpler. Eggs or oats for breakfast and rice with lentils or pasta or cos cous for dinner. During the day, nuts and dates and bread with peanut paste. No lunch. I have some egg white powder for protein and will get some soy milk powder. Also looking for a good edible weed book. From my packing practice I found that I can carry 22 liters of water.
There is a leak in the back hatch. It’s coming from the rudder pivot and probably the result of my bad treatment. Next Tuesday I’m off to the plastic welder to get it fixed.
Been working to get rolls reliable and on safety drills at the local pool. The pool staff have been tremendous, brand new pool, heaps of space and very supportive. Consistent rolling is not happening but I am getting more confident.
Have packed twice. It does seem amazing but all this fits into the Kayak, just.
The main leak has been fixed at the rudder stem. There is a minor one in the tie that holds down the rudder. Not sure if I will bother with it or not. It may have a purpose as a breathing hole. Added a new liner to the front hatch cover which worked perfectly. The liner was found at Clark Rubber. They are a great store and have a lot of the stuff needed for this type of undertaking.
My electrical plans were all changed when I found some 7000 mAH (thats 7 AH) litium iron charger/batteries in Jaycar. So I bought 2. My previous idea had two 7 AH Sealed Lead Acid batteries. The Litium Iron ones are light and small and because the output connection is USB some other connection devices are not required. Previously I was working on the assumption that Litium Iron of this type were not available.
Map of the first section with the first town of Howlong.
Eight days before departure.
To create more room I decided to try mounting the wheels on the back. Will just have to wait and see if this brings up any problems. Rolling will be harder and it may get snagged on trees maybe. If it does become too much of a problem will have to get rid of some gear and store it inside.
Loaded the whole Kayak with everything except some personal gear.
And put it on the wheels..
Its fine with the weight but I am not going to be able to haul it up any cliffs.
This is the maximum though. All the water (30 litres) and all the food. Probably 2 weeks food.
Visited a friend at Wallan today and on the way home stopped at a creek and had a look around for weed that I can eat. Surprisingly there was a few, but I hope they taste better cooked.
7 days to go.
A roll. Getting more consistent, at about 80%.
This is an exit and an entry underwater using a paddle float. This is the most likely event. Getting tossed over and then getting back in without having to go to a bank.
I have been waiting for a sail to arrive. If it does not arrive tomorrow I will have to delay the departure a few days.
I will have one day of trying it out before I leave.
The plan is to leave on Tuesday 24th. Thanks to Rob who is going to drop me off.
Packing, repacking and throwing out what I don’t need coming up.
Had my initial sailing practice at Lake Nagambie. All worked reasonably well. The wind was perfect for what I needed, not too strong. I had trouble getting the tripod arrangement at the base tight enough. I installed it with four ties to the deck and it was pretty hard to get them all adjusted so when the wind hit it they all stayed taught. Got it in the end.
Although it not all that fast it always surprises me how much faster it is travelling across the wind as opposed to with the wind.
3 Days before departure. Double checking everything and compressing and removing where possible.
Arrived about 2:30 after the drive up thanks to Rob.
Very nice spot with easy access to the river. Will try and get away early to make it past Howlong tomorrow.
Not far off seeing my first sunset of the trip.
Whew! Once I got past Howlong was hoping to get to Corowa. Not sure what I was going to do when I got there but thought it would be a good goal. Decided to stop here. Nice place & arms are tired. River is running reasonably fast, about 4 k to 7k in some of the narrows. You can’t always keep in the current though.
68 kilometres. 8 hours of paddling. Left about 7am when there was enough light to see.
Camp-site number 2.
Started at 7. Out of Cowra it was wide reaches and then there was a series of creeks and lagoons off the main flow. I planned this earlier but the reality was much simpler than the maps. A lot of the alternate paths were blocked off. The interesting bit was Lake Mallala. It’s a huge flooded river flat with heaps of trees and stumps. Just glad I have a plastic boat.
Tomorrow I have to do the 2k walk through the main street Yarrawonga. This the portage around the dam wall. Going to be a light day and have a bit of a refresh in the caravan park there.
I am camped on a reserve half way up the lake to Yarrawonga. Not worthy of a picture.
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Packed up after a great sleep. Short but careful paddle across the lake to the Yarrawonga township. Paddled to the nearest spot to where I thought was a good exit and rang the local tourist information center. As providence would have it she was a paddler. Told me the spot which was about 100 meters from me. Offered a car if I needed it, booked the caravan park and rang me back. Wow! Yarrawonga is THE place. I dragged my… I think it’s going to be called “fantastic plastic”, up on the bank, fixed the wheels and off I trundled to the caravan park.
Negotiating Lake Mulwala was a careful exercise. It was a bit choppy late yesterday and the millions of tree stumps, of various height above and below water made it a bit difficult.
Bit of a rest this afternoon, charge everything up and then plan for tomorrow
Left at about 8 after the short trundle to the ramp just below the weir wall. Straight paddle all the way. Being a Saturday there are many campers, fishermen and a couple of ski boats.
Am about 16k out of Cobram. Very nice site.
The river is running at about 3k. They are letting water out of the Lake above Yarrawonga to kill weed so it should be a bit faster than normal.
Today’s numbers. Just above what I have to do each day.
Last night was wet and a little windy. Steve warned me about storms but luckily were pretty tame in this part of the world. The storms bought a change with gusty winds. Packed and left as early as possible hoping to catch some of the wind. The best was 12k in the downward reaches. Into the wind was a struggle sometimes but the thought of the downhill run kept me going.
Day before yesterday came across a group of people in Canadian canoes. They were travelling from Yarrawonga to Cobram. Not long after setting off I came across them again and stopped for a chat. They were very skilled at judging the current flow and used it to great effect.
Food: I have been sticking to the 5 days eating and two fast days. Thursday and Sunday are the fast days. So today is a fast day and nothing all day. Don’t ask me where the energy comes from but I had little problem putting in the days paddle. On the eating days I have been having a egg white protein or lentils in a curry with rice and vegetables if I have them. Breakfast is oats and soy milk powder. Breaks during the day are nuts and dates and peanut butter sandwich if the bread hasn’t run out. I cook with river water. This should be fine as rice and lentils etc take a while to cook. When I hit a town it’s eggs. Scrambled mostly.
Water: I stared with 22 litres and have reduced that to about 15. Tonight I am boiling river water to replace my 6 litre drinking supply. This has lasted 3 days. I’ll see how the boiled river water goes and might ditch some more down to about 10 maybe.
Batteries: It took me ages to figure out how best to manage the devices. So I went with a heap of disposable batteries. I wasn’t sure how the gps was going to go as well so I have a pile of laminated maps. The gps ran it’s first set of lithium batteries out this morning. So constant use for 4 days. Alkaline usually don’t make a day. I hated the gps at first but it’s pretty much indispensable now. I have one more set of lithium and then a heap of alkaline to use. It’s a garmin and I flick between the map and the trip meter which is what you see in the photo every day.
Left at about 9 after breakfast. No wind and a bit cooler. Experimented with different strokes to try and stop the tops of my shoulders (or bottom of my neck) hurting. After a few styles I figured out the best. I was able to up the average a bit. Generally today I felt pretty strong. Came across a couple of people to talk to which are included in the times.
Went through my first annanabranch today. A very short one called “Paddy Hennessy Cutting” . Was partially full of logs and a reasonable current, but got there without any trouble. I have been keeping away from these as they can be too full of logs to negotiate.
Was concerned that there wouldn’t be any camping spots in the Barmah National Park, but there have been a few. Not as many as further upstream but enough.
No phone reception therefore no uploads. Probably the same tomorrow.
The fish are splashing here Rob.
Also while I remember.. Somewhere north of Cobram a massive swirl appeared beside my boat. Not an ordinary upwelling effect but the swirl you get when a fish takes off. The swirl was about 3/4 of a meter across. It would have been a massive fish. Can’t remember the exact location :-).
Tomorrow will get to Picnic Point and get into the caravan park, have a shower, wash some clothes and charge everything up. No shop there though, but have enough supplies till I get to Echuca. Maybe two more days to Echuca after Picnic Point.
This spot is 1826 kilometres from the mouth. Next week I’ll work out an average and project a finish date.
1790 kilometres from the mouth.
From Sandspit Creek to Picnic Point Caravan Park.
Didn’t have the same energy today, but got here. I must be running out of vegetables. Haven’t had any for a while.
Barmah Forrest is huge and very similar all the way. Very low banks almost to water level sometimes and masses of low gum forests which appear lower at times than the Murray. Seem to be lots more small birds. There was a colony of wrens at the camp and each time I moved they checked where I had been for anything new.
All the creeks are blocked off with gates to hold the water in the Murray. No beaches with the banks dropping off steeply into deep water. Came across a school group scrub bashing beside the river in reasonably rough country.
I hauled the boat up on the bank last night and must have flicked off one of the wheel clips on the tall grass. Pretty lucky the
wheel didn’t fall off during the morning. I have half fixed it but need a bit of wire to 3/4 fix it.
I will probably make Barmah tomorrow. That will be the first shop I have stopped at since Yarrawonga.
Been little or no phone reception for the last two days. Expect it will be like that till Echuca.
1762 kilometres from the mouth.
Started late after a two course breakfast. Oats and egg white protein. Yum. After an hour of paddling exchanged greetings with a camper on the bank and he called me over for a coffee. Had a great chat and set off fired up with caffeine. The famous Narrows are a little narrower with a couple of trees down. Went through the Barmah Lakes which you wouldn’t realise going down the main channel unless you looked at a map. Huge areas of water either side of the main channel sometimes with just a few meters of vegetation between the two. From the north there is only one entrance which I couldn’t see through. I could hear it and was right on top of it with the gps but could not see a path. This the one Henry and I were looking for one day.
Felt good today. Not sure if it’s the protein from last night and this morning but definately better. I stated enforcing the hourly stops. Usually I would slow down, have a drink and something to eat and then keep going but today I stopped completely.
Found the caravan park and shop at Barmah. All within easy walking distance.
Camped right on the rivers edge well away from the red belled black snake I came across while talking to Rob on the phone.
Quiet day distance wise.
Tomorrow Echuca I hope. Now into the mud banks… Ugly getting in and out.
1714 kilometres to the mouth.
Did a couple more k than that. The gps lost battery just before we arrived at the caravan park.
Last night met Aaron and Andy at the Barmah pub who are doing the same thing. They had come into the camp just behind me. We decided to paddle together to Echuca.
Made good time but the south easterlies were a struggle. Sometimes sailing but not offen. Passed the mouth of the Goulburn River. Banks are getting higher and exits muddier.
Had to negotiate a high bank to get to the caravan park. Would have been pretty tough without Aaron’s help. If any future camps are like this I will just have to leave the boat near the water and carry the essentials up to the camp.
I had planned to buy some bits for the wheels so it didn’t dint the beautiful machine but just had time to get wire to replace the lost clip.
I have be out of Echuca tomorrow as everybody is coming for the long weekend and no campsites are available. I imagine every where else along the river will be busy as well.
Left Echuca late after some scrambled eggs from the Black Pudding Cafe and some purchases from Aldi. Said my goodbyes to Aaron and Andy and headed off. Paddle steamers were maneuvering.
Had a chat to a young guy attempting to travel to Adelaide in a small sailing skiff with a sheet of ply screwed to the gunwales with a tent on the ply. He was on the bow rowing against the wind with little success. I congratulated him on his adventurism and left. We need more people like him. Having a crack at it. While he was talking to me he was figuring out how to get around the problems. I must admit he had a few, but I left pretty impressed.
Campsite tonight is pretty good. It has a kitchen stump and a clothes stump and a platform for the tent. Just a little grass and it would be perfect.
Slow day and a shorter distance. Had a proper lunch break Lot of sailing today.
Tomorrow will be close to the first lock.
1630 Kilometres from the mouth. Paddled 538 kilometres @ 44 per day. Roughly 40 days to go. 18th April is the target. Will review in a week.
Tough day. No wind, no current and a long weekend (lots of ski boats).
Set off to get to Deep Creek marina to get supplies. Banks crowded with campers. Arrived at Deep Creek marina to find the shop was closed and had been for ages. The marina was jammed packed with houseboats.
Perricotta was the next stop and a festival was about to start. This is a special place. There is a restaurant that overlooks a particularly beautiful bend in the river. My boat was a bit at risk on the steep bank from the wake boats. So headed off.
I got better at handling the boat wakes after a while. The Kayak went straight through some of the waves with the whole boat awash especially if I got caught too close to a shallow area. If I didn’t have the boat prepared for sea conditions I would have been swimming.
I rang the caravan park earlier in the day to see if they had a site and then at about 5:30 when I knew I was going to make it.
Arrived at the weir at 7:30. Think I left at about 8:30 am.
Good caravan park with great service. Had my first and only beer in a very long time with my fellow campers.
1524 kilometres from the mouth. Approximately 600 kilometres paddled so far.
Started early. The camp last night was the worst but had the softest sleeping conditions, mud. Fast current at about 4k if I could have kept in it. Campers were all packing up after the long weekend and the fishermen all left without catching anything, as far as I could tell. Everyone I asked told me they had nothing. One said it was because of the fluctuations in level.
The landscape was low, flat eucalypt forest with the banks about 2 to 3 meters.
Barham is a nice town. Shops are nearby and I have set up a two night camp.
Tomorrow washing and repairs. I have to get the wheel bracket built as the current wheels have damaged the middle bulkhead. And maybe my body will heal a little.
1584 kilometres from the mouth.
Charged everything I could in the time I had and left the Torrumberry Weir caravan park just before 10 to make my appointment with the lock master. Waited for a bit in the lock entrance basin and after he turned up the gates opened just wide enough for me to paddle through. He took my name and then I dropped about 6 meters. A bit faster than I expected. The front gate opened and out I went.
Bit of current and wind. Lots of campers on the banks. Fishermen and families and no ski boats. Surprising how many people considering its a bit out of the way. The water is more murky.
Today I struggled with pain and energy. Yesterday was tough and it told today.
Barham is at 1524 k so that gives me 60 tomorrow or a 40 and a 20 for the next day. Just have to see how I feel. Prefer to do it in one hit and rest the next day.
Marginal phone reception since Pericotta which chews up battery.
1524 kilometres from the mouth – same as yesterday
Made this attachment for the wheels so it doesn’t dint the beautiful machine.
Going to look a bit weird on the back but function over looks will have to be the case this time.
Washing done, resupplied and everything is dry.
Barham is a nice place. Somewhere I would like to come back to. Excellent caravan park.
Going to be an interesting day tomorrow. I have planned for a daylight start.
1460 kilometres from the mouth.
Intended to leave at daylight but got delayed. The wheels worked well down to the ramp but the sides dragged in the water when in travel mode. So I had to go back and raise them up a bit. I just stuck the spare paddles under them for now.
Paddled for 3 hours with a break even hour for water and some food. Some fishermen but quiet, very quiet. Heaps of snags and pretty narrow at times. Moving into sheep country.
Got out at 3 hours for lunch and a stretch. While eating my lunch a small modified half cabin sailing boat came putting along with an outboard. The navigator was sitting up the front in a camping chair with the maps in his lap. Great idea. Just stop, eat and sleep. They were heading for Mildura.
For the next six hours I got out once about 30 minutes from camp. I could see the campsite on the map and was hoping to make it and did. Good timing as it was just dark when everything was done.
Got the magnificent machine through the mud and up an improvised ramp to the camp with the wheels.
Had two periods of pain, just at the end of the day and the 3rd hour in the morning.
Good to be in the tent, heaps of mosquitoes.
50 k to Swan Hill tomorrow.
1410 kilometres from the mouth.
Got away at 8 am.
Did 3 hours and had a stretch. Fairly narrow and fast running.
Wind picked up and sailed at about 10% of the time for another 3 to 4 hours. Arrived Swan Hill about 4pm. Shoulders were feeling it when I got here.
The guys with the modified sailing boat were here so got information about the caravan park.
Checked in but have to leave the beautiful machine on the water edge below the camp.
The landscape today was dry, sheep and wheat, large property farms. Plus both under construction and built levies.
Have no plan for tomorrow other than to have breakfast.
1356 Kilometres from the mouth
Left at 10. Mainly because of where the beautiful machine was parked. About 6 meters down a bank to the water.
John and Tim in the modified sailer had to organise a transport around the next section because of low water. They will restart their trip at Boundary Bend.
I came across this. In a large reach, in the middle with 200 meters of water either side, my paddle suddenly hit bottom.
In the morning large reaches with wind, which is great. In the afternoon the wind died and I don’t think there will be any tomorrow either.
Took the Annabranch around Beverage Island. Saved a few kilometres. Looked more like the Murray than an Annabranch. After a while came across a private cable ferry with two heavy cables across the stream. Put the sail down, rudder up and backed over to the side where I could get under. Not sure how larger vessels would have coped.
Was thinking about going for Wood Wood but when I found the free camping here I decided to stop. Nyah, this town appears to be struggling and have allowed free camping all over their River parks and the surrounds of the trotting track and oval. Dozens of vans and motor homes here.
Shortish day tomorrow. 36 k to Tooleybuc. Sneaking up on the large distance to Boundary Bend. I think it will be two 50 plus with a rough camp in the middle.
1320 Kilometres from the mouth. 800 approx completed.
Left at 10, becoming a bit of a habit. Lots of campers interested in what I am doing and I like a chat as well.
No wind but a reasonable current. Saw the biggest fish eating eagle, over a meter wing span. It must have been there for a reason.
High banks with pretty thick mud on the banks.
I had people tell me about clay rocks and met the first one today not sure what happens if you hit one. Clay sounds soft. Usually and this was the case today there was a lot of water swirling around and I imagine it would turn out ugly.
Went through another anabranch or cutting today around a place called Murphy’s island. Looked ok at first but was very fast running and I was backing across the current to keep away from the snags a couple of times. The second time I felt my heart rate go up for reasons other than exercise. Saved about 6 k.
Rang the Tooleybuc caravan park and organised my site for the night which turned out to be the best ever. Small but it’s got thick mown grass and a power point nearby.
Shoulders and legs good today so for the big test tomorrow. Will it be Boundary Bend or somewhere in the wilderness.
Slow day, plenty of time.
There are several reasons I don’t drink alcohol but I need a reminder every now and again. $21 for a juice and a straight scotch.
1255 kilometres from the mouth.
Left at 8 ie on the water. Departed the caravan park at about 7:30. About a 500 meter wheel to the ramp.
The morning, about 3 hours, was windy and the most turbulent water I have seen. Can’t really see how they got paddle steamers through there. Bends called the graveyard and the bitch with pups. I assume it was called the bitch with pups was because they are angry (protective). Some of the ledges are rock.
After the Walkool River mouth, large, wide, long reaches and banks ranging from 3 meters to sometimes 20.
A couple were a hard slog against the south easterlies but generally got a bit of wind from each one.
I was expecting the camps to be rougher here but this place is great and there are more.
The northerlies are coming
Now set up for tomorrow. Have to work out if I stop at Boundary Bend or bypass it and camp down the track.
1228 Kilometres to go to the mouth.
Had a good breakfast and slowly packed and left for the relatively short trip to Boundary Bend. Large reaches and the mouth of the Murrumbidgee. Not much larger than a creek. I suppose when it floods it’s a different story.
Goats on the Victorian side, in the park. Lots of eagles and the fishermen appear to be catching some. Everyone I have asked up until now hasn’t been catching any.
Another cutting today. I haven’t had any real trouble yet but I find them a little nerve racking.
A couple of camping groups along the way staying longer term like 2 weeks. Most have the full setup with a solar electric pump on the bank for reticulated river water. A kayak fisherman packing up to go home, the first I have seen in 900 kilometres.
It’s about 100 to Robinvale and there is a camp half way. So two 50’s in a row.
1160 kilometres from the mouth.
Got away at daylight for a change. 3 guys were camped across the river from the boat ramp with two aluminium boats. They caught me up later and we exchanged plans. They are headed all the way and left Albury about 9 days ago.
Large reaches and no wind in the morning. All paddling. About 2 pm the northerly came in at a blast. Some of the reaches into the wind were a serious test but sometimes I got a free ride downhill afterwards.
Went through a fairly passive cutting at the end of the day and found a camp at about 6pm.
Some construction guys were installing a pump and as it turned out are beekeepers as well. They interrupted their 100k journey home to Mildura to give me this.
There always has been something missing in the porridge in the morning.
While we are on food here is dinner. Protein, vitamins and minerals, all you need as quickly as possible.
The good thing is the camp is close to the water.
Hard going today
1124 kilometres from the mouth.
Relatively short paddle to Robinvale after all the hard work yesterday.
Last night was very windy with a little rain. Luckily the main storm cells went around me.
Long reaches, no wind so all paddling.
Arrived at the most beautiful caravan park. Dragged the magnificent machine up on the grass and here I’m staying for two nights.
Not for beauties sake but I had a look at the map. Mildura is 200 odd away and not much in between so will have to plan a bit.
Devin, a CELTA teaching friend is working here, so caught up with him.
Slow day
1124 kilometres from the mouth – same as yesterday. Rest and planning day.
Booked the Euston lock for 10 am tomorrow. And then it will be 3 or 4 nights on the river until Mildura.
Very pleasant breakfast on the grass next to the water. 2 course meal. Oats and eggs and vegetables.
Went to the office to sort my bill out and asked for a hardware store. Got a few questions and the manager ended up making the bracket I needed for the wheels with his bandsaw. It’s now high enough out of the water when I load up tomorrow.
There is something I don’t understand about ants. One grabbed an oat flake from the ground and took off over the grass. I watched him/her for about 30 minutes trashing though the blades of grass hauling this huge lump of food. Up one and down another blade. Always heading in a perfect straight line. When it got to a bare patch of ground it started getting harassed by a bigger ant but still persisted in the same straight line. Then it got to where I thought was nothing and it walked this way and that thinking I know it’s here somewhere. Then it found it, a small hole. Backed down it…. problem, the oat flake won’t fit in the hole. It jammed it in the top and later I saw that it was gone. How did it know the bearing back to home? It knew the bearing but not the exact spot because it looked for the exact spot when it got there. We don’t need gps, all we need is an ant brain.
Probably limited phone reception over the next few days.
1070 kilometres from the mouth.
Passed through the Euston lock at 10 without much trouble except that the exit was pretty turbulent just outside the gate.
Seemed a lot of water coming over the weir and I could see it in the current. Reaches continuing to get bigger.
Less snags but rock shelves and sand bars. Some of the rock shelves would be dangerous to larger boats and houseboats.
Drifted past a family of kangaroos. They were about five meters away. They were doing the “if we keep really still he won’t see us” thing. And the big one had the look on its face to match.
The wind was south easterly and strong at times. I started to try tacking with the sail and it worked but I’m not sure how efficient it is compared to just paddling up the reach. Certainly more fun. I can get it up to about 30 to 40 degrees off the wind.
Camp for tonight. Just short of Wemen. No the camera isn’t on an angle. I’ll have to haul myself up the bank during the night.
A little over 9 and a half hours on the water.
Phone is working here but is marginal and chewing up battery.
998 kilometres from the mouth.
Left about 8:30 and headed for a stop at the Wemen shop which was about an hour away. Left the magnificent machine next to a very high bank and scrambled up to the shop. Got some bread and that was it. Should have enough of everything. The only thing in doubt is drinking water. Will fill my daily supply up tonight and boil some river water if I need to.
Passed a group of school children from Frankston in Canadian canoes and later saw someone setting up their kitchen on a sand bar.
It was a good day for sailing. I paddled all the way but the wind gave me some extra speed. Almost in every reach. They nearly all point North.
Two cuttings today, “retail” and “taupalin” each took out 8 k. They both were well established and not a problem.
Tonight, as most nights, I’m camped on the Victorian side and I can hear goats on the NSW side. All through the day they were on the NSW side. The last time on the Victorian side was ages back.
You might be able to see them.
It’s 111 to Mildura from here so hopefully one big day and one small one. Just have to see how it pans out.
No phone reception so this won’t be uploaded for a couple of days.
940 kilometres from the mouth.
Left as early as possible. I think it was about 7:30.
No wind early and then later was northerly. Nearly all the reaches were northerly pointing. So it was an all paddling day.
Passed up some ripper camp sites to get as far as I could. And here it is camp 940.
Don’t let that sandy bank fool you. I was only thinking this morning that maybe mud would be more tolerable than sand in everything. Now I have both.
Oh and… . See that thing in the bottom left that looks like a chair. It’s now some sort of shelf. It failed the 100 kilogram test. Well it’s probably less that that by now. I notice that the foot pegs are getting further away. I think that’s because my rear end is getting smaller and I’m moving further back in the seat.
Boiled some water in case I run out tomorrow. I saw someone on a houseboat filling their kettle with river water today so that’s good enough for me but what’s that foam on the top.
Mildura is about 50 away. Will have to see how I feel tomorrow. I’m due for a days rest and was hoping it would be Mildura. My medical advisers are telling me to slow down. Certainly felt like I should today.
886 kilometres to the mouth
Made it to Mildura. I think it was the enticement of a days rest that did it.
Some of the reaches were 8k and that takes an hour to paddle up them. Luckily though the wind was blowing down a few to make it easier.
Woke up to this.
And I don’t know if you can see a line of pelicans in the picture below. The white dots.
All night the fish were thrashing and jumping and the pelicans had lined themselves up to heard all the fish into the corner. Me camping there foiled their plan.
Just down the river from my camp was a couple who have been living of a houseboat for 18 years. Lovely couple. I was asked how long I was taking and it’s about average. Most kayaks take about a month from Albury to their houseboat. They love the life. They have a camp set up on the bank for their family at Easter. I was given a bag of fruit, which I haven’t had for a while and was great.
The closer I got to Mildura the more houseboats started appearing. They are getting bigger.
Before Mildura is Gol Gol. They have a stunning public space between the river and the houses. Beautiful lawns and trees. No fences. Worth a look if you get a chance.
Very windy tonight. Quite cosy in my tent.
I will be in Mildura for a couple of days.
886 kilometres to the mouth
Breakfast and shopping in Mildura .
Washing and cleaning the magnificent machine.
Paddle steamer came past.
Entertained some ducks
Watched the paddle steamer go back.
And tied down the spacers
Booked the lock for 9am and have to be in Renmark Monday.
832 kilometres from the mouth.
Was a bit rushed getting to the lock at 9. Left the duck family. Mum dad and eight babies.
A houseboat was leaving the lock as I was arriving so it all worked out well.
The morning was perfectly calm, a little cool, and I was able to get a good rhythm and focus going. I stopped every hour and then after 3 hours for lunch. After my call home at lunch a speedboat went past and I head someone call out that they knew me. It was Aaron who I left at Echuca. He was having a break of 6 days while his travelling partner was away at a wedding. They were just a day behind me at Robinvale.
Went through a fairly short and safe cutting which saved 10 k. After lunch the wind blew up and it was a slog except for the last reach where I got some behind me.
The entrance to the caravan park here is pretty special.
I should have a flag just like Sturt (and Rob)
Booked lock 10 for 8am. So early start, it’s a long way to Renmark which is the next major town. Lots of locks to coordinate on the way.
Bought some more supplies for what I think will be 4 or 5 nights in the wilderness.
776 kilometres from the mouth.
Left early and videoed the entry to the caravan park. Exit the Murray across the Darling to the caravan park.
Got to the lock on time and I notice that this lock master had a remote control.
Light south westerly early on but later it got up to 15k to 20 at times. Did the 3 hour session and got out. Was very cold with the wind and air temperature. The water was a lot warmer. The magnificent machine was heavy today. More food and water. About 15k more as it will be at least 3 nights before Renmark.
Took the Walpole Island canoe trail which was more out of the wind and more interesting than the wind blasted Murray. The creek bank was full of dead timber and some recent like a storm had been through. The landscape is dry with low scrub. A few kangaroos but no other animals. The entrance off the Murray was full of snags but negotiable. I thought for a while that I might make the next lock but ran out of time. So I’m camped about 5 to 6 k from lock 9.
By the time I get to the lock the 50k will translate to 61k because of the creek and the canoe trail.
732 kilometres from the mouth.
Well, here I am, all cosy in my beautiful tent, brought here by my magnificent machine. Warmer tonight which I am pleased about.
Very interesting day. Two locks 9 & 8 in the one day. Paddled away from camp around a couple of corners and the lock master for 9 was waiting for me with the chamber open. So paddled in and was through it in less than 10 minutes. His colleague from 10 had rung and told him I was on my way. In this part of the river with no mobile reception I was unable to book ahead.
Light wind early which was lucky as the section of river was facing West where the wind was coming from. As the river turned the wind picked up in the afternoon and I got some rest down a couple or reaches.
Noticed on the map a creek that looked like a shortcut. Went up it for a bit but it looked too woody so turned back to the river.
Stopped for lunch on this large bend and walked up on the bank. Very dry salt bush country. Looked like Aboriginal middens in the first layer of soil of the bank.
At lock 8 (just made it by 15 minutes from closing time) got some instructions for lock 7 which is closed so I have to wheel around it. Also was given advise on this campsite. Which is pretty good.
682 kilometres from the mouth.
Spectacular morning. Still water and no wind. Warmer than previous days. It was about 30k to lock 7.
Got to within a few hundred meters of the lock in about 3.5 hours.
Turned the phone on to call and had one way communication to me and I spent too much time trying to get a position so the reception would work. Limited success.
Got around the lock 7 (it is closed) by myself and the trusty wheels. Had lunch and then paddled as much as the afternoon as I could.
Passed up one camp which was pretty good but decided to go a little further.
Saw on the map “Devils elbow bend”. First thing I saw was a houseboat on the corner. Then this…
So that’s camp 682. A.. mazing.
Got about 110k to Renmark.. This is the toughest section so far.
615 kilometres from the mouth.
Got up at 6 and got ready to leave when it was light enough to see. Excellent for paddling. No wind and water very still. I wanted to make it past lock 6 and that meant I had to be there before 4:30.
Just after Pollards cutting came across a dead bullock in the mud and another younger one alive or just. Tried to get my phone working to notify the property owner but it was working but not good enough to make a call. I decided to leave and see if I could contact someone further down. Landed and went into a property near the bank and tried to rouse someone, but couldn’t. Left a note in the driveway in the dust.
Over the way was a houseboat with a large group on board. They had also tried to contact someone with equal luck. And had also tried to get it up.
They offered me tea and fresh fruit salad which was fantastic. Great conversation where I learnt more about the river and the politics. The spot was Lindsay Cliffs.
That was about 10:30. From then on I paddled to make the lock by 4:30.
Passed the border between NSW and SA. And not far from the border sign and in the middle of nowhere, miles from anything, in the desert, was a guy jogging in all the appropriate gear. I realised after a few surprised questions from me that he was from a houseboat just down a bit.
Paddled past the customs house shop and houseboats. I worked out at 3 pm that I could get to the lock if I kept above 7k for the hour and a half. So I did and arrived with two minutes to spare. Was not easy.
I told the lock master about the bullock and it’s location and he was going to look up the property owner and give him a call. I imagine for the next few weeks every second person the property owner comes across will tell them they have a bullock stuck in the mud near Pollards cutting.
Went through the lock and slowly paddled to a camp.
566 kilometres from the mouth.
Relatively quiet day after a pretty intense day before. Did not sleep well. Pelicans prowl around at night. Something I didn’t know.
Few more houseboats. Nearly cleaned up a fishing line out the back of one that was parked on a corner. I’ll have to be more careful.
Spectacular cliffs coming into Renmark and massive reaches.
While I was resting in amongst some weeds a large carp came nozing around. I got it on video for later.
Never been to Renmark before and it is nice.
Caravan park is huge but right on the river.
I will be two days here. To rest and build up a bit and buy some gear that has failed.
My head lamp.. Cost $5 at bcf.. Still goes on the same set of batteries but has fallen apart.
My small lantern uses one set of aaa in two nights. Gotta be something better than that these days.
566 kilometres from the mouth. Same as yesterday
I like Renmark, it’s a great place. Spent the morning getting what I needed. The lights and a standby hat which might turn out to be the one I use.
Parked at the main wharf was this..
Had quite a long chat to Frank and his mate Ken on board.
A great pair of guys. Frank, on the right, is a lot smarter than he looks by the way. Notice the bricks. That’s a stove, full size, wood stove with oven, on the houseboat. I love that boat.
There were pumpkins, rock melons etc growing all over the boat. Most held up with bras.
Frank’s a singer songwriter among other things.
Tonight he was going to take the boat up river to catch some fish.
566 kilometres from the mouth. Same as yesterday.
This is the Murray River flag. I am told that because it has light blue stripes it is the lower Murray River.
Somehow, tomorrow morning I am going to tie one on the magnificent machine.
Booked lock 5 for 9:30 in the morning. Caravan park is starting to fill up for Easter so the river over the next week will be busy.
Not sure how far I will get tomorrow. Just have to see how the day pans out. Apart from bread and water I organised about two weeks supplies today.
Finally found a good lantern.
There is a front coming through at the moment, just wind and no rain. Today when I asked if it will rain the answer was “this is Riverland, it doesn’t rain here”.
Approx 509 kilometres from the mouth.
Left the tidy and historic Renmark at about 7:30. Paddled slowly to lock 5 as I was early. On the way came across this..
It’s called “How’s the serenity”. Which is Rob’s favourite saying when we are paddling somewhere nice.. Or paddling anywhere really.
Decided to approach the lock early and the gate opened and in I went. Long reaches and southerly gusts up to about 25k.
Managed to get one long reach with the wind behind me before hitting one very long one into Berri against the wind. Next to these cliffs.
Got to Berri at about 3pm and decided to keep going. Rang the tourist office and checked out a creek entry just past the next lock that gets me into a long Creek that is straighter than the Murray and more out of the wind.
There is a rock causeway across the entry of the creek and was told it would be ok to get the magnificent machine across it.
Booked the lock and took off. Arrived at the lock at 4:15 which was what I estimated.
Got to the rock causeway and managed to get across it without damaging anything. It was in place to control the level and the flow into the creek. The Pelicans thought it was a great spot. There was about 20 of them and not far away was a great camping spot but I decided to move on.
Finally had to stop here, which is acceptable but only just.
Not going to rain. Doesn’t rain in the River land.
Can’t see the magnificent machine from the tent, bit of a worry.
An achievement today. That 8:59 plus the 28 minutes stopped time, was full time in the Kayak except for the causeway. I have been stretching but thought I would see how long I can stay in the Kayak.
454 Kilometres from the mouth.
Started in Katarapko Creek and after a couple of hours arrived at the Murray. Navigation was with the Murray River access maps as the gps map showed me going overland most of the time. Every designated campsite was taken up along the creek. Landscape looked bad from fire a few years ago and most trees were dead except just before the Murray where it greened up.
The river is increasing in size and length of reaches. Had a soft southerly which was good for the day. The last reach was 12k and I got all but the last 2 which will have to wait for the morning. Campers everywhere and large groups. Some boats and a half dozen house boats. 8
The camp here is good except when I dragged the magnificent machine up on the bank I cracked open the bulkhead between the cockpit and the day hatch again. The trouble is I don’t like it being in the water when the wake boats go past. I’ll have to unload it and then get it up.
Got the flag on the back.
Slow day.
424 kilometres from the mouth
Quite an event full day and am lucky to have got this far.
Packed up and left the camp after meeting the neighbours with two dogs camped along the way. They had the happiest 3 legged dog ever.
Paddled past their camp and waved to their friends as I went past. Paddled for and hour and a half and got to the 444k sign. Thought I would take a picture. No phone. Went over to a bank and looked in the gear I packed, no phone. After a few minutes resigned my self to a days loss and a 10k paddle extra back to last night’s camp.
Less than a kilometre a boat pulls up and asked me how I am. A little depressed I say I’m hoping my phone is still on the bank back there. It isn’t they say. Here it is. One of the guys had gone for a walk, found it on the bank and came after me. The kindness of strangers. Amazing. After a chat and many thank you’s I went back to 444. I asked them to leave a contact on here so I hope they do.
Stopped for lunch at Kingston on Murray and had a great conversation with a local person about bank erosion.
Got through lock 3 about 3:30 and arrived here an hour or so later. Banks are packed with campers but I’m lucky to not need vehicle access.
The Spot battery caved in today. 1st set, not bad going, 38 days.
383 kilometres from the mouth.
Left just after sunrise.
Large reaches all heading west and perfectly calm at the beginning. Huge cliffs. Some for kilometres. Lots of swallows in the cliffs. Some seem to like my sail and almost land on it. I would love that to happen.
The large reaches are taking energy. Today I stayed in the Kayak until I got to Waikerie but I was pretty tired. Mainly in my legs which seems strange but it is the rudder.
Some sailing but the wind changed and started blowing at me in the last hour and a half.
At about 12 rang the caravan park and booked in. They are using an overflow area which is relatively close to the river. Got to the ramp and took about 30 minutes to get out with several wake and speed boats using the town reach.
Going to have a rest day tomorrow. I have probably two more days of roughly westerly then the river turns south. So will be watching the wind forecast for those huge reaches.
Rain is forecast for tonight so I am set up in my beautiful tent ready for it.
383 kilometres from the mouth – same as yesterday.
Camp Waikarie, battened down ready for more rain and hail (small) tonight. Very cosy.
This morning the easter campers were here and unfortunately had to pack up in the rain.
Everything is charged, including me, (with food) and ready for tomorrow. Tomorrow is either going to be good or bad. The wind is gusting from the SE to SW up to 25k so depending on how it blows up the reaches will depend how my day goes. It will be like that for tomorrow and then a high pressure system moves across and everything goes calm. Most of the reaches look like they favour a southerly so I am hoping it’s good. The thing why tomorrow is important is Morgan, the next place is where the river turns south. So, if I can get to Morgan on the wind tomorrow it will be easier to get south with the high pressure system around and maybe some northerlies.
Nice town, beautiful river front and nice camping but I think this is just open for Easter.
This is another one of Overland Bend. Stunning sunrise!
Approx 310 kilometres from the mouth.
The wind lived up to its forecast and it’s still gusting outside now. Got a good sail down all but 3 reaches. Those 3 were pretty tough but it was worth it. Maximum speed was 10.7k which is travelling. The average in the windy reaches was about 7. 5k.
I was looking at where the boom on the sail is bolted onto the mast and noticed the bolt had come undone. The bolt was just hanging. I couldn’t reach it so I thought a gentle wack with the paddle would help. Bad move. It all sprang apart with the bolt still there but even more precarious. Slowly over to the bank and managed to get it fixed. Lucky.
Nearly got to Morgan, about 10 k out. Just ran out of day. Got the main reaches in before the river turns south and hopefully the high moves in tonight.
Camp here is for houseboats and campers..
Kitchen & Bedroom (out of the wind)
Garage
Cliffs
284 kilometres from the mouth.
Started early, about 7. Stopped at Morgan for water and lunch just the other side. Houses around Morgan very Queensland like ie on stilts. Riverbank is freehold with lots of private property signs.
For a while I was going for Blanchetown but ran out of day again.
Camped in one of the houseboat stopping places.
The river is winding between two cliff faces some kilometres apart. Every now and again the river comes up against one of the cliffs and travels along it for a while before it bends back eventually leading to the other face.
Huge reaches but not much activity. Saw two moving houseboats and one other moving boat today.
The Southerlys are still here. I thought they would be gone by now. Later in the day the headwind was up to 15k.
Started to warm up in the afternoon so am hoping the high will take effect tomorrow.
Approx 244 kilometres from the mouth.
The interesting thing about this morning was that there was a dew. First dew of the trip. If I get too many of them I will be in some difficulty as my clothes won’t dry.
The river is almost Gunbarrel straight south and I’m glad I wasn’t trying to go down it a week ago. There was some southerly today but not too bad. The sky changed slowly during the day to a little more sunny with less cloud.
Sitting in the last lock.. Lock #1
The lock was at Blanchetown and on the lower side of the lock was huge numbers of pelicans. I saw a group earlier in the trip in a line lifting one wing up to shadow the water to see the fish. They are fascinating birds.
Lots of very nice Queensland design houses on the downstream side on Blanchetown along with freehold shacks and camp grounds.
Up close and personal with a cliff
Just in case you have been wondering how I have been finding my way around.
Swan Reach town is great. Lots of towns to come back to. Sitting in the hotel writing this after a meal overlooking the river and the ferry, very nice.
201 kilometres from the mouth.
Well I tried to make it 199 but this where I ended up.
River has changed during the day. The massive gouge out of the flat plain has given way to rolling hills, which has made the river a bit more windy.
I’m about half way to Mannum which means I have to pull the same stunt tomorrow.
Passed a loose procession of river cruises on their way upstream. Very quiet, very well maintained and one, especially powerful. Moving very fast and all I heard was the wash. Many outboards have passed me but one stood out as very quiet on a small tinny. It was too far away for me to get the brand but with it also I could only hear the wash and no motor noise.
Huge houseboats, a few moving or with people on board but most parked and unoccupied.
Large numbers of signs about private property, no house boats, no stopping, freehold land and I doubt the veracity of some but one intreiged me, “occupied land, no entry”.
The cliff faces today we’re particularly sheer and long. The sulphur crested cockatoos liked the little caves in them and we’re all over the cliffs. As I came up to one they were going berserk, leaving the cliff face and heading for the trees. When I looked up two wedge tailed eagles were circling. When I looked further up in the sky two pelicans were circling up in a thermal. No doubt to fly off somewhere. Also today saw two pelicans perched very high in a dead gum tree. Would have liked to see how it landed there. Some what like landing a jumbo jet on a tennis court.
Camp tonight is pretty good.
Don’t believe the 11 top speed. Must have been when I threw the gps on the deck.
154 Kilometres from the mouth.
Perfect day for paddling although it started with me have to run on instruments.
Could see just enough so I didn’t run into anything but had to use the gps to see which way the river was going and where I was in the river.
Later it got glorious
Then this set of ladders appeared. You have to look carefully there is one up through a hole in the ledge. No way would I go up or down it.
And then there was this.
After seeing few house boats yesterday, they were everywhere today
You have to add 6k to that, I forgot to reset it. Also the elevation. It’s where I took the picture, the cafe where I’m having dinner.
114 kilometres from the mouth.
Fairly undecided about moving on last night. For a couple of reasons. I needed more supplies and a bit of rest and planning to prepare for the lake.
I woke early and decided to take off. Dark and some light rain but no wind to speak of, so excellent paddling conditions.
Tomorrow I think will be northerlies, so all good for Wellington.
Tonight I am in a marina/caravan park on the downstream side of Murray Bridge. Bit low on food but still ok, no shops nearby. The lady in the park office has kindly given me some eggs which are going to be breakfast.
I have been doing washing at every caravan park as I have very few clothes. Lucky am able to do this as the air is very damp at night. My routine is very set at each night with two variances, caravan park or rough camp.
On the way today
The expanses of water are huge. Pretty hard to get it in perspective.
Looks like my body is programmed for 40 k days.
80 kilometres from the mouth.
Nearly there, just gotta keep telling my self it’s not done yet.
Good northerlies this morning but they died later in the day.
Long relatively straight reaches. Rained a little and more predicted for tonight.
This bank is at the back of the Wellington pub. Across the road from the pub is the caravan park. I have no video of me getting the magnificent machine up this bank but I’m sure you can imagine. It’s not the paddling or the snags or the dangerous cuttings that did me in but this bank came close.
Camp Wellington
Not sure how tomorrow is going to pan out but I think I will go for the first camping spot with is Pomanda Point and review the situation. Been in contact with Aaron and Macca and we may all go across together. Tomorrow afternoon and Wednesday will be good weather wise for the broader area. Tomorrow morning has good northerlies for the channel to the first point
.
Approx 30 kilometres from the mouth.
Challenging day. Left about 10 and unpacked the magnificent machine to get down the bank at the back of the pub without breaking anything.
Got to the end of the channel about to enter the Lake proper and contacted my three compatriots who left Murray Bridge earlier. I decided to go ahead as the northerly was blowing and no paddling was necessary. I set a bearing for Narrung but kept the east coast about 400 meters off. Until I had a large bay to cross and decided to stick with the wind.
At some stages it was full left paddle, plowing a groove in the water and still doing 8 to 9k. Eventually the wind died and changed. This meant two wave patterns meeting with peaks. Plus I had to start paddling. After a while, somehow I ended upside down. No sure how but there you go. Went through the paddle float process with getting in upside down, pumped it out with the bilge pump and paddled over to the bank. Had something to eat and headed off.
Lost half my spare paddle and the phone because the aquapack failed. Good outcome really.
The track across the Lake
Beautiful camp site. Free camp as well.
Sound asleep and I hear my name being called from outside. The guys from Murray Bridge arrived, incredible effort.
15 kilometres from the mouth.
Left at daylight. Conscious of the open water bit. It was a little rougher but landed just south of Point Sturt after 2 and a half hours.
This was taken by Aaron. One of the young geezers.
Followed the coast to keep out of the westerlies and had lunch at a point past Point Sturt. I could see the houses of Clayton’s Bay and Hindmarsh Island far in the distance and looking back, the open water of Lake Alexandrina towards Narung. Just myself and the environment for kilometers. In a few hours that would be over. I thought about that for some time. Sitting on shore, or in the magnificent machine, watching the birds and animals, and the river, would be over. While I loved the caravan parks, the towns and the people, the sadness that it would be over, as soon as I left that point, got to me. Getting to Goolwa and the barrage was important, but emotionally, leaving that world, affected me the most.
Looking back East to Narrung
Looking towards Clayton’s Bay
Camp Clayton
Averages etc are incorrect as I had to turn the gps off and on because no batteries left.
15 kilometres from the mouth – same as yesterday.
Rest and supplies. A very kind resident got some batteries for me from Goolwa and some gas. So ready to go.
Prepared the magnificent machine by removing anything I didn’t need and left everything at the camp in Clayton’s Bay.
Thanks to the family for putting up with my crazy plan.
Thanks to the Monday kayak guys who introduced me to Victorian rivers and lakes and Kayaking generally.
Thanks to Rob for watching out for me, the lending of gear and moral support along the way.
Thanks to Mel Taylor for getting me fit enough to even think about a thing like this and the advice along the way.
Thanks the Elizabeth and Toni for the medical advise.
Thanks to Grant and his friends for finding my phone and chasing after me.
Thanks to the two young geezers (later to become 3) and the info you shared. Truly impressive paddlers.
Thanks to the makers of SPOT. Makes solo trips like this possible. It should be used more widely.
Thanks to the residents of the Clayton’s Bay caravan park. Hospitality at its best.
Thanks to the Victorian Sea Kayak Club. Great organisation and great people in it.
Thanks to Rohan and East Coast Kayaks for the magnificent machine.
Thanks to the Broadmeadows Pool for allowing me to practice safety drills.
The overall average was just above 40 kilometres per day, which includes rest days. The total distance was 2160 Kilometers.
The things that stand out in my mind are the generosity of people, the fragility of the river, especially the banks, and the birds. The amazing pelicans.
Thank you for your interest.
5 kilometres from the mouth and the end of the trip. (The real mouth that is) Left with just enough light to see. Cloudy, raining but calm. Paddled straight past Goolwa and to the barrage. I had one moment of emotion as I paddled to the barrage but it was pretty cold and it soon left me. This was the end of a years planning and 53 days of solid work. I could see the salty stuff on the other side and it didn’t look all that inviting. Paddled back to Clayton’s Bay via the Wharf.
